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Kolhapuri Controversy: Prada Denies Design Theft from Traditional Indian Footwear

Luxury brand denies GI breach.

Nafisa by Nafisa
August 2, 2025
in World
Reading Time: 4 mins read
Kolhapuri Controversy: Prada Denies Design Theft from Traditional Indian Footwear

Milan Show Triggers Outcry Over Footwear Resemblance

The Italian luxury brand Prada debuted its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection during Milan Fashion Week on June 22, 2025. Among the items was a pair of brown toe-ring leather sandals that closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals—traditional Indian footwear granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019. Priced at around ₹1.16 lakh (approximately SGD $1,856) per pair, Prada’s sandals made no reference to Kolhapur, prompting accusations of cultural appropriation and unauthorised commercial use.

Photo Courtesy of Prada, via Instagram @/luxuriousbymm

Criticism quickly mounted on social media and from artisan communities in India. The absence of any mention of Kolhapur or acknowledgement of the chappal’s origins led to allegations that Prada had exploited traditional Indian craftsmanship without credit or compensation.

Prada Responds, Claims No Infringement

By 28 June 2025, Prada acknowledged that the design drew inspiration from Indian footwear traditions and stated the product was still in its early conceptual stage. The brand followed up with a formal legal response on 9 July, denying any breach of GI rights.

Prada asserted it had neither labelled nor marketed the product as ‘Kolhapuri’, nor claimed any regional affiliation. It described the item simply as “leather sandals” and insisted it had not employed GI-linked techniques or terminology in any commercial material.

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Photo Courtesy of Prada, via Instagram @/luxuriousbymm

Legal experts in India specialising in intellectual property supported Prada’s stance, pointing out that drawing aesthetic inspiration without using the protected GI name or suggesting a geographic link does not amount to legal infringement under current Indian law.

Legal Challenge Dismissed

A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) was filed in the Bombay High Court on 4 July, demanding Prada halt sales, issue a public apology, and compensate the artisan community for reputational and economic damage. Filed by a group led by intellectual property rights advocate Ganesh Hingmire, the petition argued that Kolhapuri chappals symbolised local heritage and livelihoods in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Genuine Kolhapuri Sandals via Inga Leathers Instagram

The Bombay High Court, however, dismissed the case on July 16. The bench decided that the only people with the legal authority to prosecute infringement claims under the GI Act are registered GI holders, specifically LIDCOM (Maharashtra) and LIDKAR (Karnataka). The court concluded that the petitioners lacked the authority to file on behalf of the GI owners.

Prada’s legal team reiterated that the brand had not used the word “Kolhapuri” nor misrepresented the sandal’s origin. They argued the PIL sought reliefs—such as compensation and injunctions—that are not applicable against a private entity in such a filing.

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Ongoing Tensions and Global Collaboration Talks

On 16 July, the same day the court dismissed the PIL, Prada representatives visited Kolhapur, where they met with artisans and district officials. Discussions reportedly included a potential co-branded collection and ethical supply chain collaborations. Prada indicated interest in upgrading the product line for international markets while recognising the artisans’ cultural contribution.

Photo for Illustration Purposes Only

Meanwhile, LIDKAR has issued a ₹500 crore legal notice to Prada, alleging unauthorised commercial use of a GI-protected product. Although Prada has insisted that no GI-related rights were violated, the case is still being reviewed.

Kolhapuri Chappals Gain International Spotlight

Despite the controversy, Indian footwear manufacturers have reported a rise in domestic and international interest in Kolhapuri chappals. The incident has reignited broader conversations about global fashion’s responsibility toward traditional artisans and ethical sourcing.

While Prada may have avoided legal consequences for now, the episode underscores the importance of attribution, respect for cultural heritage, and fair trade in an increasingly globalised fashion industry.

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Watch videos here:

@cbcnews

These Prada sandals that resemble traditional Indian footwear, known as Kohlapuri chappals, led to some immediate social media backlash. CBC’s Salimah Shivji explains the shoe’s history, Prada’s response to the criticism and what could be a small silver lining. #Prada #Sandals #Luxury #Fashion #Design #India #CBCNews

♬ original sound – CBC News

Making of authentic Kolhapuri sandals:

 

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